Chicago: The Tasting Town

Today marks the end of Chicago's annual Taste of Chicago festival where thousands of people descend on Grant park to taste many specialties and traditional Chicago favorite foods. It's a great festival.

But much more important to me, and to most, I think, is that year round Chicago is an amazing taste town. When people think of great restaurants in America, usually San Francisco and New York come to mind. But let me tell you, Chicago is right up there... in terms of quality, high end dining, innovative new cuisine, and traditions from countries across the globe. Yes, there's also great pizza and hot dogs...but oh my there's so much more.

The High End Tasting Menu
For starters, in the past few months I have eaten at L2O, Moto, Tru, Alinea and Topolobompo. Yes, I am missing Charlie Trotter here, and it deserves a return visit. I also am not listing Les Nomades, as I think it has fallen way off the mark. But, as a positive person, let me just say a word or two about these five great restaurants.

Last week I had dinner at the new L2O, which opened within the past year in the space in Lincoln Park previously held for years by Ambria. You would not recognize the space. Sleek, modern, with marble tables, and gold branches, its gorgeous setting is matched by the service and the food. L2O bills itself as a seafood restaurant, and clearly the fish courses were outstanding, but I will point out one unique course that was non-fish...it was a beautifully seared foie gras which came almost hidden in a voluminous cotton candy hedge. Presentation was awesome, taste to match. Our waiter was knowledgeable, just the right degree of friendly and solicitous, and truly appeared to be excited about the food and beverage he described and presented. In fact, after the meal he invited us to see the kitchen where some 25 men and women were busily preparing food. Although they tout the souffles, we each opted for a chocolate dessert...both fantastic, but the winner was the chocolate surprise box. And then came a gorgeous log of chocolate ganach which we each had a slice of to finish with our espresso. Oh my. Cost with champagne apperitif and wines was around $200/person.

Moto: Located in the old warehouse district of the South Loop with its sister restaurant Otom next door, Moto has a groove all its own, beginning with the edible menu. The space is small and compact...a bit noisy...and clearly my friend and I were the oldest people there by some 20-25 years. The guy next to me was wearing a superman t shirt and jeans for this $200 meal. (Am I showing my age here?) But to the food...innovation everywhere and the use of liquid nitrogen is a staple...surprises abound as chef Cantu mixes science and art. Take the course called Cuban cigar...which arives in an ashtray...the cigar is made of pulled pork with onion, pickeld cucumber, and red bell pepper surrounded by a thin skin of colard green and ashes comprised of dried olives and black and white sesame. The ten course is $115, twenty course $175.

Tru: I have dined several times at Tru which is conveniently located across from Northwestern Memorial Hospital in a modern, spare but very open and high ceilinged space. Tables are well spaced and the restaurant is quite and dignified. You do not hear your neighbor's conversation here. Wait staff is very professional and dignified as well. There are a la carte options and tasting menus beginning with a three course menu at $95. The food at Tru is delicious, but it has lost its edge. Combinations are a bit predictable, and to me Tru lost a lot when it moved the caviar staircase to separate and very expensive option on the menu. It's always risky to change the signature dish.

Topolobompo: I have had lunch at Topolobompo many times. Created by Rick Bayless along with its more casual neighbor Frontera Grill, the pair are well known for innovative Mexican cuisine in spaces that reflect the culture of Mexico with museum quality art and heighten the experience. I have always loved the food here, but somehow I had no idea that there were a fantastic tasting menu at night at Topolo. The menu changes monthly, with all items organic or sustainably raised. Sauces are complex with one recent mole sauce containing 28 ingredients.

Alinea: In terms of both creativity and food tastes, Alinea wins the prize for me. Located in Lincoln Park in a space that doesn't appear to justify its cuisine, here is a place that is focused on creating an amazing experience from amuse bouche to post dessert treats. One detail of one course: the lamb. On the bare table a white linen pillow is delivered to my place. When the white plate with the tiny lamb chops is placed upon it, the pillow loses its air...and a wonderful lavendar fragrance emanates from the pillow to complement the lamb. Oh, my. The tasting menu of 13 courses is $145 and worth every penny. The tour, which seemed over the top to me is 23 courses for $225. But I am tempted by the wagu with powdered A-1, potato and chips...

Are there more to try? Oh yes. I think it's time to begin a regular restaurant review here, so stay tuned.

The Villa Life

Just returned from a week in Tuscany ... where a friend had organized a houseparty at a villa about 40 minutes south of Sienna.

First, let me echo my earlier comment about traveling now. There may be some guilt associated with treating yourself in these economic times, but trust me, prices are right and the break is worth it.

Second, let me say that if a friend asks if you want to him and his family for a week at a villa, immediately say yes. It was a great yes.

Villa Ferraia is a very special place. About a 2.5 hour drive along the coast from Rome FCO airport, it is isolated. This is both good and bad. The bad is that the last 1.5 kilometer to the villa is a terrible windy dirt road with potholes galore, no lights, no boundaries and few hints as to where you are going. In fact, on our first trip up it, we agreed immediately that we would not be driving out to big evenings with dinner and wine and then trying to find our way back.

The good, though, is worth it. Sitting on a hilltop with amazing views in all directions, Villa Ferraia is almost self sustaining. Its grounds that are immediately around the villa are beautifully manicured with an amazing array of flowers.

There's a large infinity pool, three varied temperature hot tubs, gigantic checkers, backgammon and chess boards, a pizza oven, an observatory, a theatre for 40, a workout room, two treatment rooms, and many areas with benches, or tables for dining or just sitting.

There's a large covered fountain-centered area which was ideal for dinners...or napping.

A hike down the hill leads to the vegetable gardens...a bit further to the animals (pigs, chickens, etc.) and on to several ponds filled with large trout. There's also horseback riding nearby.

The house itself offers ___ rooms nicely furnished with large bathrooms. I was on the top floor with a window that looked out over the hills...and saw the full moon flooding it with light each night.

We had cooking school with Stephano each morning in the large kitchen...very participatory. Lots of fun, but this non-cook's conclusion is that pasta is way too much trouble for the difference in taste. The pizzas, on the other hand, were amazing.

The owner Vittorio and his wife Patricia are on hand much of the time, with Vittorio richly playing the role of host and raccanteur. He clearly knows the area and is great at conducting tours, including one to the home of a shepherd and his family where we saw sheep's cheese being made and then enjoyed a wonderful dinner there.

Eighteen of us stayed in the villa...there could have been a few more as rooms were available. It is a comfortable place with a wonderful soft quality to the air. And the weather gods were kind enough to only have it rain one night after we were safely home.

Cost: Basic 6 nights was about $1000/person with meals, transportation, tours, etc. all extra. If I wanted to nit pick, it would be that if you wanted fresh towels or sheets during the week, that was extra. For more info http://www.villaferraia.com/

Although I believe they will rent out individual rooms, this is a place to bring a group and ideally have it all to yourselves. A wonderful retreat...destination wedding...family reunion...all would be perfect here.

bargains to be found

This may be the time of economic uncertainty and even financial crisis, but it is also a time for wonderful travel bargains. And I must confess that having seen lots of dollars vanish from my retirement portfolio before my eyes, I am inclined to go ahead and do the things I want to do. (caveat...not on credit that I have to extend...) We need to support the businesses we treasure and those we want to survive.

So, the theory is, you must spend money to save it! For example, I have found a round trip non stop fare from JFK to Rome on Alitalia in May for....drum roll..... $375 including tax and insurance! How is this possible? Through www.farecompare.com and then on to www.vayama.com . I will even get Delta miles toward the next free trip...

What else? next week I am heading to Paris...and staying at Le Meurice for under $400! This is usually more than $1000, way beyond my budget....but I have decided that a $400 splurge is in order...especially since I only have 2 nights. (The other two are in Holland for the tulips.)

Getting into the best restaurants? Not a problem. Whether in New York or Paris or Chicago, a phone call...often even on the day I want to go...generally does it. What amazes me is that when I arrive, the restaurants are still full. Business is booming.

Last week in Chicago's Topolobompo, always a *** and among the top half dozen restaurants in town, a group of five had a wonderful meal with service to match. The restuarant and its sister Frontera Grill were packed. However, the waiter was very willing to let us do different things...two different tasting menus, one person not doing a tasting menu.

If you remember my earlier post about the dying art of delighting your customer...you will know that I was very pleased to see this flexibility. The waiter, Oliver Camacho, was so enthusiastic and knowledgeable about both the food and the wine that it was a pleasure to hear him.

The week before at The Modern in New York, the restuarant was less full, but no less wonderful in food prep and service. Captain Louis Smeby made sure I was well taken care of and had just the right amount of formal and friendly. One extra that I really appreciate is the willingness to box up the special candies and cookies at meal's end...I can't possibly eat them after the meal...but I will surely want them later!

Here's to making the most of the recession...and helping our favorites in the process!

Fasnacht 2009

It's 3:00 a.m. on Monday morning, March 2nd, when the hotel Les Trois Roi calls to wake me up. Quickly I dress and head downstairs in the darkness, guided only by my flashlight. We gather at the bar for orange juice, coffee and croissant before heading out into the streets.

3:30 a.m. Streets are already crowded with people and there are few lights anywhere. Basel is in darkness. I move toward my favorite spots for observation--the square in front of city hall--but crowds there are too great, so I move a few blocks away. It is chilly and damp, but it is not raining.

4:00 The last lights are out. The bell tolls the hour....and immediately begin the eerie sounds of piccolos (fifes)and drums as the cliques of fasnacht begin their journey from all points around the city toward the center. The marchers are dressed in masks and costumes, but not necessarily matching at this point. Many are wearing masks and costumes from prior years. Most have small battery-lit lanterns on taheir heads, and some cliques feature larger lanterns carried on poles at the front of their entourage. Each group has a large battery or candle-lit "float" that is wheeled along with them. These floats are the focal point of their response to this year's theme.

4-7:00 a.m. For three hours these groups march and play their sombre tunes. It takes almost 45 minutes for the stalemates of too-large crowds begin to dispurse and make movement easier for them...and for viewers. Along the way, groups stop for refreshment, leaving their masks and drums and lanterns on the sidewalk. No one bothers them.

This is an eerie celebration...without drunkeness. There is something haunting about the music and inspiring about the commitment of the cliques to their task.

As dawn comes, many have moved to the traditional post morningstreich breakfast of kase torte and mehl suppe. But throughout the morning smaller remnants of the cliques will continue to parade throughout the town.

1:30 It is time for the first parade of the season. For this parade the cliques have donned this year's masks and costumes that are tied to the theme they have chosen to portray.

My favorite spot for this parade is in the center of the main bridge across the Rhine river. This way I can see groups coming from each direction. This parade has organized routes...at least at the beginning. It also includes brass bands who play gugge music and large floats drawn by tractors. On these floats clique members throw confetti, rtangerines, mimosa flowers, carrots, etc. to the crowds.

This parade goes on for hours. This year it mists and sometimes even rains. But the marchers continue on. I cannot tell you what the overall theme of this year's Fasnacht is. But the floats and interpretations are fascinating.

There are pigs, Einsteins, men with their pants falling down, Swiss bankers in gas masks, Scotsmen in kilts, chickens, wolves, middle eastern oil men, and a host of wagis and other more traditional masks. As they parade along, some pass out long sheets with a song or poem that explains their theme. This year's most amazing to me is the ku klux klan with a giant Obama leading the group.

As night falls, the groups begin to parade toward the cathedral square on the top of the hill. Here the lit floats will remain so that people can come and view them. Most are battery lit, but some still use the traditional candles.

This is day one. The celebration lasts three days, from 4 a.m. Monday to 4 a.m. Thursday. It is always one week after the traditional carnival and mardi gras celebrations around the world. Although it has common features with'Germany's fasching and the U.S. Mardi Gras, it is different. More solemn. More elaborate. More connected to today's politics. This was my eighth time to visit this celebration. I rarely see other Americans. This is a Swiss festival at its heart, and it is part of Basel year round as the Cliques prepare for it. Every time is better than the last.

Here's to Fasnacht 2010 which begins on February 22nd. See you there!

What happened to delighting your customer?

I fly a lot. For business and for pleasure. Last year, on Delta alone I flew more than 140,000 miles. I am a million miler elite plus platinum member of the Skymiles award program.

I fly this airline whenever possible. As a result there are perks… I get to be in zone one when I board. I am occasionally upgraded to business class. I appreciate these immensely.

But Delta is trying my patience….and I think this story can offer some lessons for Delta and other companies as well.

We are in a very difficult time for airlines. Their margins are squeezed. Travel is down. Regulations increase. I understand their need to make money. I want them to be successful, so the purpose of writing this is to point out how a different approach to a request can make their customers like me a whole lot happier. I believe the story has broad application for all businesses who desire to keep customers.

Situation: I am using miles to make a quick 4-night trip to Switzerland for their version of carnival. I have booked this trip months ahead. Three weeks prior to the trip I get a message that the return flight from Zurich has been cancelled. I can either do a much longer, more convoluted trip home that day, or I must change the return date. Since I have a business conflict that does not allow me to extend the trip, I now am faced with a very short 3-day trip. We make the change.

I suggest to the agent that it would be really nice if they would upgrade me to business class if there was space available on this flight. She can’t believe I would ask. So I write to customer care and suggest that they put me on stand by for the upgrade, giving it to me only if business class is not full on the day of travel. The lengthy reply includes this: “While we would like to offer special consideration in cases such as yours, compensation is not offered to customers impacted by a schedule change and we must respectfully decline your request for an upgrade on the return flight. I am truly sorry to disappoint you, as I am sure this is not the answer you expected.”

They were wrong here. It is exactly the reply I expected. And that is what is too bad. Whatever happened to wanting to delight your customer?

We now must pay to check luggage, pay to talk to a representative when making a reservation, pay for food, pay, pay, pay. And when we do not check luggage, the use of smaller planes means we still have to give up our luggage and wait for it planeside (and of course if we were first on, that luggage is usually last off, making it difficult to make the next flight since this was inevitably delayed.)

If travel is going to be more expensive and less convenient…if there are going to be fewer of us traveling…if airlines want to succeed….now is not only the time to seek ways to wring more money from each flight…it is also the time to find ways to delight your customer…especially if those ways do not cost you a nickel. This is what makes customers return…and tell positive stories.

My message is to Delta…and it is to every business that has customers. These are tough times. They offer us the opportunity to rethink the paradigm of customer service. How great is the opportunity to win friends and new customers right now? It is huge. We are all stressed and truly welcome those companies and their employees who try to make a difference in the customer experience.

I have, of course, told this story to a number of friends and colleagues. Just think how different their impression would be if I had been able to conclude by saying, “Isn’t Delta fantastic? They took the lemons and made lemonade.”

The Pleasure of Planning

So many places to go...so much fun to consider the options. My spirits can always be raised by thinking about the possibilities of the next trip...or trips. For instance, at the moment I have several in the hopper

• Argentina in September
• Thanksgiving: Christmas markets in Berlin and Prague
• Post Christmas visit ito Paris
• Basel Fasnacht March 2-4
• Oh, and then I found a fabulous 4 Seasons rate--yes in August, but still--Scottsdale and managed a great airfare as well...so long weekend there.

Now, you'd probably think that's enough. But then there's the business travel...I'll have trips to Chicago each month, San Diego in July, Pittsburgh in August, The Greenbrier in November...not bad.

So how to concentrate on the work in between since the travel planning is so much fun.

This morning I have focused on the Christmas market trip...the German Christkindlsmarkts are a wonderful introduction to the holiday season. I got hooked when I lived in Baumholder thirty years ago...and have been back several times to re-experience the gluhwein, the ginger cookies, the sizzling little sausages, the rachenman and nutcrackers, the wonderful ornaments and the various village components...plus all kinds of toys and lots of people!

The most famous and largest is at Nurnberg, Munchen's is also good sized but not as crowded, but virtually every town of any size has one, and each has a character of its own. On this trip I hope to not only visit Berlin's and PRague's but also Dresden's and Leipzig's. Between markets it will be a long postponed look at Berlin...I mean, when I was last there the wall was in tact. And I haven't been to Prague...so lots of opportunities to consider....

Then there's where to stay...and where to eat. I like luxury...but even more, I like to get a feel for the old Germany with the Bavarian painted furniture, beamed ceilings, and creaking floors. That's getting harder to find, as all the drive is toward most modern and artsy.

Any suggestions for this trip welcome. Meanwhile, I will brush up on my German, consider train vs. road travel, and wish for just a touch of snow while I am there.

On the Road: An Introduction

I am a traveller. I love to travel, whether to Paris, France or Pea Ridge, Florida, I love the adventure of the road. The planning is almost as much fun as the adventure itself, and I am grateful for the wealth of information and ideas that can be found online.

Fortunately, I not only travel for pleasure, I also get to travel for business, and that business travel takes me often to Chicago, New York, Washington DC, and other primarily US detinations. On my own, my inclination has always been to head to Europe (France or Italy primarily) but one resolution this year is to stretch out more...so this spring was Morocco...this fall will be Argentina. But yes, I still hope to go sniff the lavendar in Provence next month.

Wherever I go, I never miss an opportunity to find a new restaurant, walk a different neighborhood, discover a concert, a museum, a play or a popular hangout.

From the start, I should say my tastes run toward the best in class...as far as I can afford. Although I enjoy a great pizza, I seek Michelin starred restaurants. While sleeping in a tent can be fun, give me the Ritz Carlton (Club Level), the Four Seasons or a special local hotel/inn/resort any day.

I look forward to sharing my adventures and hope that others will chime in with theirs, making suggestions from trips or from their own home towns so that we can all reap the benefits of experience.

Here's to being on the road again, soon. Diane