Chicago: The Tasting Town

Today marks the end of Chicago's annual Taste of Chicago festival where thousands of people descend on Grant park to taste many specialties and traditional Chicago favorite foods. It's a great festival.

But much more important to me, and to most, I think, is that year round Chicago is an amazing taste town. When people think of great restaurants in America, usually San Francisco and New York come to mind. But let me tell you, Chicago is right up there... in terms of quality, high end dining, innovative new cuisine, and traditions from countries across the globe. Yes, there's also great pizza and hot dogs...but oh my there's so much more.

The High End Tasting Menu
For starters, in the past few months I have eaten at L2O, Moto, Tru, Alinea and Topolobompo. Yes, I am missing Charlie Trotter here, and it deserves a return visit. I also am not listing Les Nomades, as I think it has fallen way off the mark. But, as a positive person, let me just say a word or two about these five great restaurants.

Last week I had dinner at the new L2O, which opened within the past year in the space in Lincoln Park previously held for years by Ambria. You would not recognize the space. Sleek, modern, with marble tables, and gold branches, its gorgeous setting is matched by the service and the food. L2O bills itself as a seafood restaurant, and clearly the fish courses were outstanding, but I will point out one unique course that was non-fish...it was a beautifully seared foie gras which came almost hidden in a voluminous cotton candy hedge. Presentation was awesome, taste to match. Our waiter was knowledgeable, just the right degree of friendly and solicitous, and truly appeared to be excited about the food and beverage he described and presented. In fact, after the meal he invited us to see the kitchen where some 25 men and women were busily preparing food. Although they tout the souffles, we each opted for a chocolate dessert...both fantastic, but the winner was the chocolate surprise box. And then came a gorgeous log of chocolate ganach which we each had a slice of to finish with our espresso. Oh my. Cost with champagne apperitif and wines was around $200/person.

Moto: Located in the old warehouse district of the South Loop with its sister restaurant Otom next door, Moto has a groove all its own, beginning with the edible menu. The space is small and compact...a bit noisy...and clearly my friend and I were the oldest people there by some 20-25 years. The guy next to me was wearing a superman t shirt and jeans for this $200 meal. (Am I showing my age here?) But to the food...innovation everywhere and the use of liquid nitrogen is a staple...surprises abound as chef Cantu mixes science and art. Take the course called Cuban cigar...which arives in an ashtray...the cigar is made of pulled pork with onion, pickeld cucumber, and red bell pepper surrounded by a thin skin of colard green and ashes comprised of dried olives and black and white sesame. The ten course is $115, twenty course $175.

Tru: I have dined several times at Tru which is conveniently located across from Northwestern Memorial Hospital in a modern, spare but very open and high ceilinged space. Tables are well spaced and the restaurant is quite and dignified. You do not hear your neighbor's conversation here. Wait staff is very professional and dignified as well. There are a la carte options and tasting menus beginning with a three course menu at $95. The food at Tru is delicious, but it has lost its edge. Combinations are a bit predictable, and to me Tru lost a lot when it moved the caviar staircase to separate and very expensive option on the menu. It's always risky to change the signature dish.

Topolobompo: I have had lunch at Topolobompo many times. Created by Rick Bayless along with its more casual neighbor Frontera Grill, the pair are well known for innovative Mexican cuisine in spaces that reflect the culture of Mexico with museum quality art and heighten the experience. I have always loved the food here, but somehow I had no idea that there were a fantastic tasting menu at night at Topolo. The menu changes monthly, with all items organic or sustainably raised. Sauces are complex with one recent mole sauce containing 28 ingredients.

Alinea: In terms of both creativity and food tastes, Alinea wins the prize for me. Located in Lincoln Park in a space that doesn't appear to justify its cuisine, here is a place that is focused on creating an amazing experience from amuse bouche to post dessert treats. One detail of one course: the lamb. On the bare table a white linen pillow is delivered to my place. When the white plate with the tiny lamb chops is placed upon it, the pillow loses its air...and a wonderful lavendar fragrance emanates from the pillow to complement the lamb. Oh, my. The tasting menu of 13 courses is $145 and worth every penny. The tour, which seemed over the top to me is 23 courses for $225. But I am tempted by the wagu with powdered A-1, potato and chips...

Are there more to try? Oh yes. I think it's time to begin a regular restaurant review here, so stay tuned.