The Villa Life

Just returned from a week in Tuscany ... where a friend had organized a houseparty at a villa about 40 minutes south of Sienna.

First, let me echo my earlier comment about traveling now. There may be some guilt associated with treating yourself in these economic times, but trust me, prices are right and the break is worth it.

Second, let me say that if a friend asks if you want to him and his family for a week at a villa, immediately say yes. It was a great yes.

Villa Ferraia is a very special place. About a 2.5 hour drive along the coast from Rome FCO airport, it is isolated. This is both good and bad. The bad is that the last 1.5 kilometer to the villa is a terrible windy dirt road with potholes galore, no lights, no boundaries and few hints as to where you are going. In fact, on our first trip up it, we agreed immediately that we would not be driving out to big evenings with dinner and wine and then trying to find our way back.

The good, though, is worth it. Sitting on a hilltop with amazing views in all directions, Villa Ferraia is almost self sustaining. Its grounds that are immediately around the villa are beautifully manicured with an amazing array of flowers.

There's a large infinity pool, three varied temperature hot tubs, gigantic checkers, backgammon and chess boards, a pizza oven, an observatory, a theatre for 40, a workout room, two treatment rooms, and many areas with benches, or tables for dining or just sitting.

There's a large covered fountain-centered area which was ideal for dinners...or napping.

A hike down the hill leads to the vegetable gardens...a bit further to the animals (pigs, chickens, etc.) and on to several ponds filled with large trout. There's also horseback riding nearby.

The house itself offers ___ rooms nicely furnished with large bathrooms. I was on the top floor with a window that looked out over the hills...and saw the full moon flooding it with light each night.

We had cooking school with Stephano each morning in the large kitchen...very participatory. Lots of fun, but this non-cook's conclusion is that pasta is way too much trouble for the difference in taste. The pizzas, on the other hand, were amazing.

The owner Vittorio and his wife Patricia are on hand much of the time, with Vittorio richly playing the role of host and raccanteur. He clearly knows the area and is great at conducting tours, including one to the home of a shepherd and his family where we saw sheep's cheese being made and then enjoyed a wonderful dinner there.

Eighteen of us stayed in the villa...there could have been a few more as rooms were available. It is a comfortable place with a wonderful soft quality to the air. And the weather gods were kind enough to only have it rain one night after we were safely home.

Cost: Basic 6 nights was about $1000/person with meals, transportation, tours, etc. all extra. If I wanted to nit pick, it would be that if you wanted fresh towels or sheets during the week, that was extra. For more info http://www.villaferraia.com/

Although I believe they will rent out individual rooms, this is a place to bring a group and ideally have it all to yourselves. A wonderful retreat...destination wedding...family reunion...all would be perfect here.